Ben Nevis

Ben Nevis at 4409ft (or 1344m for you modern folk) is highest mountain in the country and has some of the best climbing to be had in Scotland both summer and winter, and it is highly rated by mountaineers from all over the world. It is because of this 'Highest' title that it is all the more popular, particularly with tourists and non mountaineers alike. On its NW flank an eroded track leads many people to the summit, and it is more than usual to encounter badly equipped walkers near the summit. Everyone has a right to go there, but it is the mountains sheer popularity that takes away some of its charm.

However Ben Nevis has many more good points - At 4409ft 'The Ben' stands head and shoulders above all the other mountains in these islands. This altitude at such a northerly latitude ensures an ample amount of snow for all the pleasures of winter climbing. 'The Ben' boasts more routes than any other mountain in the country. The Northern Corries of the Cairngorms may challenge this, however Ben Nevis has the height advantage and lots of the routes are long and challenging. Amongst the classics are Tower Ridge a 2000ft climb that is graded Diff in summer, and GRADE III in winter. It was first climbed in 1892, or should I say descended, as it was used as a descent route by the Hopkinson Bros. Orion Direct is a 1600ft Grade V climb, and is surely one of the finest climbs of its kind in Scotland. It has been likened to having all the atmosphere of a big alpine climb.

Ben Nevis viewed from Aonach Mor

Ben Nevis viewed from Aonach Mor

Ben Nevis is on the western end of a long ridge that starts above the Larig Leacach in the east, and goes over the Grey Corries, The Aonachs, and Carn Mor Dearg. This fine chain forms the north side of Glen Nevis which is without doubt one of Scotland most beautiful glens, it is almost Himalayan in character, particularly in winter. Forming the south side of Glen Nevis are the Mamores, a chain of 11 Munros that provide some spectacular high level walking, and doing all 11 of these Munro in a day is a fine challenge for fit hill goers.


Ben Nevis - Facts and Figures

Distance : 16 miles

Total Ascent : 8500ft

Time : 11 - 14 hrs

Route Grading : A long day that requires a good level of fitness and stamina. This route may not be possible in winter due to lack of daylight hours. Excellent under snow particularly later in season when daylight allows. The summit of Ben Nevis requires care in winter, cornices and avalanche hazards.

Accommodation : Youth Hostel in Glen Nevis, Hotels and lots of night life in Fort William, and Club huts at Steall (Lochaber JMCS) and CIC hut at Allt a' Mhuillin (SMC). Hut booking from Hut Custodians and MC of S

Summits Visited In Our Route
Gaelic Name Translation Height (ft) Height (m) Status
Tom na Sroine Hill of the Nose 3015ft 918m Top
Stob an Cul Choire Peak at the Back of the Corrie 3580ft 1097m Top
Aonach Mor Big Ridge 4004ft 1221m Munro
Aonach Beag Little Ridge 4060ft 1236m Munro
Carn Mor Dearg Big Red Cairn 4012ft 1223m Munro
Ben Nevis Mountain of Heaven 4409ft 1344m Munro
Maps
Publisher Scale Title / No
Ordnance Survey 1:50000 Sheet 41
Ordnance Survey 1:63360 Ben Nevis & Glen Coe
Bartholomew's 1:100000 Sheets 50 & 51

Lochaber 4000ers Map

Sketch Diagram showing Lochaber 4000er's route © Cameron Johnston 1997


A long and challenging day ahead with lots of spectacular scenery, and as you drive up towards Aonach Mor Ski Centre some fine glimpses of the 4000ers wet the appetite all the more. The Ski Centre is a bustling hive of activity, but as you head east through the Leanachan Forest the crowds are left behind. The track of the old railway is followed (careful to find the right line) and when the Allt Choire Rais is reached we climb up to the edge of the forest. From here go steeply up onto Tom na Sroine, which has an altitude of just over 3000ft, it is dwarfed in comparison with the Aonachs. Our next two tops pass without incident after which the crest narrows on the descent. From here An Chuil Choire shows its true wildness and remoteness, and it is hard to believe that a bustling Ski Centre sits only a mile or so away. Aonach Beags cliffs and ridges now also dominate the scene, looking even more spectacular under winters cloak.

The next part of the route is quite sporting particularly under snow when the face can bank out. Various lines can be taken up this face, and care should be taken as a cornice can form at the top. A short walk across Aonach Mors summit plateau leads to our first Munro of the day. From here Carn Mor Dearg is placed to our west with Ben Nevis towering behind, making Carn Mor Deargs 4000 + height look almost insignificant. Aonach Beag is not too far away and a short descent down to a wide bealach, followed by a climb to a narrowing ridge leads to a the steep final climb onto the summit of our second Munro. The drop off the eastern cliffs below Aonach Beag is sheer and care should be taken in winter.

Great bridge in the sky

Looking down the Carn Mor Dearg Arete towards Ben Nevis

From the summit of Aonach Beag retrace your steps steeply back down to the bealach between the Aonachs. Ascend back up towards Aonach Mor but take a line towards the steep rib on the mountains western side. This rib requires great care under snow as ice forms quite readily. This descent leads to the bealach at the head of Coire Giubhsachan where a time out to take on fuel and liquids before the next steep slog will probably be most welcome. The pull up from the bealach leads to a narrowing ridge which has an almost alpine feel to it, and from here you can usually make out other people on the Carn Mor Dearg Arête. Suddenly the summit cairn appears as does the magnificent cliffs of Ben Nevis. Fort William and Loch Eil make a great contrast to this an without doubt your camera will be doing overtime. Remember to take plenty of film as I ran out at this point.

Now its time to go along the CMD arete, which is an excellent narrow ridge that provides a great bridge in the sky to 'The Ben' itself. The ridge is fairly simple and most people will enjoy boulder hopping their way towards Ben Nevis. As usual the fun ends and a very leg draining 1000ft pull up through boulders finds us at Britain's highest point. In summer the place will be jostling with lots of walkers who have came up the tourist route. This in turn leads to lots of litter and cigarette ends here (SHAME). In winter it all looks better and quieter as most of the crowds are gone. In summer it is possilbe to go and look over and down into depths of the corrie, in winter this is not advisable as the edge forms a massive cornice.

Now the long walk back to the Ski Centre, which starts by following the touist route down to the half way lochan. (Care Here - as many have finished up in five finger gully!!!!). Drop down into the lower reaches of Coire Leis, from here you can now look up to the cliffs of the Ben and trace your route along the skyline. Now we follow the Allt a Mhuillin down and pick up the old railway track that eventually leads us back to the Ski Centre, a long and memorable day completed !


This page last updated 29th May 2002 - © Cameron Johnston 2002