Sgurr nan Gillean

Sgurr nan Gillean - Peak of the young men. First climbed 7th July 1836 by Duncan Macintyre (a local forester) and James Forbes (a leading scientist) via the 'Tourist Route'. Many locals were shocked to hear the summit had been attained as the mountain had been considered unclimbable, and previous attempts had all failed. The name 'Tourist Route' is bit misleading as there is no path like the tourist routes of Ben Nevis, Ben Lomond or Ben Lawers - indeed many a tourist has been repulsed by what they saw up there and turned back.

Sgurr nan Gillean viewed from across Coire Bhasteir

When viewed from Sligachan, Sgurr nan Gillean appears as a fine tapering pyramid, this does not even hint at the true rugged nature of the mountains topography. The Tourist Route is not even visible from here and the majesty of Pinnacle Ridge cannot even be hinted at, as it is seen head on. Am Basteir and its companion Tooth add to this excellent skyline, and possibly give a small hint as to the complexity of the ridge. I suppose the best way to find out what is happening up there is of course to get up and explore. Many walkers are put off by the fearsome reputation of the Cuillin this should not put them off, there are many fine walks into the various corries and down Glen Sligachan to name a few. As for the summits Bruach na Frithe and Sgurr na Banachdich can offer fairly simple ways of ascent. At the other end of the scale the Basteirs Tooth is one of the most spectacular summits and requires climbing skills to reach the top. Sgurr nan Gillean itself has no real easy ascent, with the tourist route (SE ridge) being easiest, it is however a fairly heady scramble in the last 60m or so, but it is perhaps still worth the visit even if the summit is not attained.

Sgurr nan Gillean - Facts and Figures

Distance : 10 miles

Total Ascent : 3700

Time : 6 - 7 hrs

Route Grading : An easy introduction soon leads to some spectacular rock scenery, and some memorable situations. Climbing standard moderate but climbing from Basteir Tooth to Am Basteir is the crux, with a short pitch of Very Difficult. Some of the harder parts can be missed by dropping around into corries, the west ridge of Sgurr nan Gillean offers no easy alternative. In winter the round is best done in the opposite direction as harder parts can then be abseiled. The Cuillin in winter can be considered out of bounds to all but the experienced.

Accommodation : Hotels in Portree, Broadford and at Sligachan. Youth Hostel and MCof S hut in Glen Brittle. Skyewalker Independent Hostel at Portnalong is excellent. Camping at Glen Brittle and Sligachan or better still in the corries of the Cuillin.

Summits Visited In Our Route

	Gaelic Name	Translation	Height (ft)	Height (m)	Status
	Bruach na Frithe	Slope of the Forest	3143ft	958m	Munro
	Sgurr a' Fionn Choire	Peak of the Fair Corrie	3068ft	935m	Top
	Fiaclach a' Bhasteir	The Executioner's Tooth (sic Axe)	3005ft	916m	Top
	Am Basteir	The Executioner	3069ft	935m	Munro
	Sgurr nan Gillean	Peak of the Young Men	3167ft	965m	Munro

Maps

	Publisher	Scale	Title / No
	Ordnance Survey	1:50000	Sheet 32
	Ordnance Survey	1:25000	The Cuillin and Torridon Hills
	Bartholomew's	1:100000	Sheet 54
	Scottish Mountaineering Trust	1:15000	The Black Cuillin , Skye

Sketch Diagram showing Northern Cuillin route © Cameron Johnston 1997

Our start point for this excellent outing is on the A863 Carbost road near the Sligachan Inn. A path follows the Alt Dearg Mor and soon reaches a small plank like bridge near a waterfall, we do not cross this but continue up the path on the north bank of the river. A fine low level walk to Glen Brittle can be enjoyed by following the path over the Bealach a Mhaim. As we walk along this path stop and enjoy the tumbling waterfalls and clear pools that have enticed many a skinny dipper. Sgurr nan Gillean's famous Pinnacle Ridge also comes into profile as does our first Munro Bruach na Frithe.

As the Alt Dearg Mor starts to peeter out below the Bealach a Mhaim we strike off up towards the NW ridge of Bruach na Frithe which is the prominent shoulder on the right side of the Fionn Choire. This is Gaelic for fair corrie and it is by Cuillin standards very green and vegetated. On reaching the crest of the ridge we gain our first site of The Basteir Tooth which looks fairly insignificant from here. The site across Coire a' Tairnealear on our other side is much more dramatic with Bidean Druim nan Ramh and Sgurr a Mhaidhaidh dominating the skyline. The ridge follows on and up towards Bruach na Frithe without incident, follow the crest and enjoy some scrambling and warm up for the delights to come.

The trig point of Bruach na Frithe is reached and we can enjoy a view of the whole Cuillin Ridge from here. We now turn our attention to the east and our next objective Sgurr a Fionn Choire which is listed as a top in Munros tables, behind this small peak lies Am Basteir which looks fairly jagged and intimidating. The scramble up onto the Sgurr a Fionn Choire is excellent on the crest, with easier variations on the north side. From the small airy summit we look across the gap to Am Basteir and the Tooth, from here gain an idea of our ascent route up onto the tooth. Our descent down to the Bealach nan Lice is via a small gully on the north side of the peak.

At the bealach we have make a decision on our ascent route we have three choices;-

Naismiths Route (35m) Very Difficult (Intimidating and Sensational)

Lota Corrie (200m) Moderate (Original Classic Route)

Kings Cave Chimney (30m) Very Difficult (Unusual Subterranean Squeeze)

Am Basteir and The Tooth

If the Tooth is too intimidating Am Basteir can still be climbed by descending north into Corrie Bhasteir and follow the base of the cliffs before ascending up to the Bealach a Bhasteir. The east ridge of Am Basteir is then followed quite easily except for one small 10ft step in the ridge about half way up. This step has turned back many a keen Munrobagger, as the hold are not visible from above and the drops on either side are significant.

Our route continues onto the Tooth, following the Lota Corrie route. In order to start the climb we must drop into the Lota Corrie from the Bealach na Lice, a trail down through the scree leads to the base of the cliffs. Here a scree funnel leads us into a series of small steep chimneys and slabs. The climb is not too exposed but care should be applied as there is lots of loose rock. Higher up we skirt round and drop into the nick between Am Basteir and the Tooth. Go easily up the slab that leads to the top of the Tooth. Peer over the overhanging side and perhaps wave to others below, no doubt your position will look sensational from below. Now descend back down the slab to the nick the hardest part of the day follows. Move leftward round to the base of a gully, and ascend this steeply and move back out right onto a shelf on the crest. Above is a short overhanging wall with a large crack in it. The moves to climb up are technically difficult but once a big jug handhold is reached the difficulty eases. If this hold cannot be reached try climbing onto your partners shoulders. Above this pitch follow the crest upwards to arrive on the summit of Am Basteir.

The descent down to the Bealach a Bhasteir is fairly exposed, try sticking to the crest and avoid the slabby ground on the Lota Corrie side. Sgurr nan Gillean lies ahead and the true profile of the West Ridge is not apparent yet. The ascent of this ridge involves some Moderate rock climbing. Start by following the ridge then continue on the north side under the west ridge. A series of chimneys and ribs allows access to the crest of the ridge, take your pick. We arrive on the crest where the famous gendarme used to be. This part of the ridge is easier now but care is required as the small pinnacles that remain are still loose in places. Above this section easier scrambling leads to the summit via a rock window. The summit of Sgurr nan Gillean is perhaps one of the best - an airy platform almost detached from the rest of the world. Below lies Pinnacle ridge with Knight's Peak most prominent. Am Basteir and Bruach na Frithe dominate the view to the west and to the southeast the smaller but no less spectacular Sgurr na h-Uamha marks the end of the Cuillin ridge. We now descend the Tourist route to the south east, again care is required follow the crest, some easier but looser variations are found on the Lota Corrie side. At the col between Sgurr Beag and Sgurr nan Gillean a cairn is found and a path develops. Further down the path skirts below Pinnacle Ridge before dropping again, after which a longish walk back leads back to Sligachan thus rounding off a great day.