Liathach

Liathach

This is the ultimate in Scotland's Mountains although I am biased with this opinion and not everyone will agree. It consists of a whole range of peaks, spanning the north side of Glen Torridon. It is rated because of its sheer bulk, this is noticed when traveling along the glen and one first gains sight of it. Some may say An Teallach is better, I could agree but An Teallach reveals too little of its self from the road, and its Liathach's almost unclimbable look that wins the day! Even Sgurr nan Gillean may offer better mountaineering routes but it still lacks Liathach's huge almost prehistoric looks. Once on the ridge of this great mountain the views are excellent - with the Outer Hebrides visible on the clearest of days. Nearer still are the other Torridon peaks of Ben Alligin, Ben Eighe and Beinn Dearg. In Winter Liathach is a very serious proposition indeed - there have been many fatalities over the years. Even the traverse of the Main Ridge is (GRADE II), and the by pass path is considered unsafe, as it banks out and is very avalanche prone. However on a good day with excellent snow conditions it can very enjoyable, providing superb scenery and sport.

Classic views of Liathach

Liathach - Facts and Figures

Distance : 12 miles

Total Ascent : 3500ft

Time : 8 hours

Route Grading :Particularly serious with lots of exposed scrambling and some rock climbing of Moderate grading. Once on the Northern Pinnacles few escapes can be made and it might be wise to carry a rope and slings ect. even if these are not used. A downwards retreat might have to made at some point on the third or fourth pinnacles if the wrong line is selected.

Accommodation : Youth Hostel at Torridon, Camping at Loch Torridon (also locally on request), and Climbing Hut (Ling Hut) SMC owned in Glen Torridon.

**Summits Visited In Our Route**
Gaelic Name	Translation	Height (ft)	Height (m)	Status
Meall Dearg	Red Hill	3150ft	960m	Top
Mullach an Rathain	Summit of the Pinnacles	3358ft	1023m	Munro
Am Farsinen	The Talons	3050ft	927m	Top
Spidean a'Choire Leith	Pointed Peak of the Grey Corrie	3456ft	1054m	Munro
Bidean Toll'a Mhuic	Pointed Peak of the Pig's Hollow	3200ft	975m	Top
Stuc a'Choire Diubh Bhig	Peak of the Deep Black Corrie	3004ft	915m	Top

**Maps**
Publisher	Scale	Title / No
Ordnance Survey	1:50000	Sheet 25
Ordnance Survey	1:25000	The Cuillin & Torridon Hills
Bartholomew's	1:100000	Sheet 54

This route is some what different from the normal east to west traverse. By walking round the less frequented northern side of the mountain we enjoy views of the wild corries from below. This side of the mountain is also far quieter than the normal trade route from the road. The starting point is at the Car Park situated on the A896 just below the eastern end of the mountain. Follow the climbing path round into Coire Dubh Mor, in due course this leads round to the back end of Liathach. Ben Dearg is prominent here and eventually the path splits off towards Beinn Eighe's northern side. We continue westwards until Meall Dearg is in view and ascend towards it. After 2 hrs the base of Meall Dearg is reached - this is a very difficult peak to climb. The easiest way is to ascend into the corrie on the NW side of Meall Dearg, there are some other alternatives and much exploration can be done on this lonely side of the mountain. From here a hidden rake leads (care required - loose rocks) to the small col between Meall Dearg and the first of the Northern Pinnacles, go up a short distance to the summit of Meall Dearg. Here you can enjoy a view of the main ridge few have seen, the view ahead to the climb is a bit intimidating but don't be put off.

The next part of the route is the hardest - Descend from the top back to the small col above the gully we originally ascended. Then go up and over the first and second pinnacles which are not difficult. The third pinnacle is the largest and care should be taken as it is steep and has some loose bits. A short steep chimney (moderate) leads to the top of this pinnacle. The fourth pinnacle is the crux of the whole route and requires some nice moves in order to gain the top (An easier alternative can be followed on the right). Above here the rock changes to Quartzite boulders and soon the first Munro, Mullach an Rathain is reached.

On the Am Farsinen Pinnacles of Liathach

The next part of the route is the Am Farsinen pinnacles, which should cause no problems as they are easier than their Northern companions. There is also a by-pass path on the South side of the mountain but after the previous climb the last thing you will want to do is miss the crest of this ridge. Once again the fun ends and its hands back into the pockets for a hard bouldery pull which soon leads to the second Munro, Spidean a Choire Leith from where a grand view of the whole route can be had. A steep bouldery descent and a rise leads to the next top and a final descent finds the path normally used for ascents from the eastern side of the mountain. Before descending and if energy permits you can climb up onto Stuc a Choire Dhiubh Bhig. From here an excellent view of the ridge can be had, as can a look across to Beinn Eighe. Descend back down path and down to the road side as described earlier. A short walk back along the road leads back to the car park and the end of what is an excellent day.